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How luxury brands build desire over time

Martin Potter | The Journal

I wasn’t shopping for a luxury watch.

I’d recently moved to Switzerland and the device on my wrist was an Apple Watch, something I’d bought at launch to replace a dependable, if unexciting, mechanical Seiko I’d worn for years.

The truth is, I never really loved it. I’d been drawn in by the promise of digital convenience, only to realise fairly quickly that it made me more stressed and more dependent on tech; constant notifications, the subtle pressure to check it, and my children pressing the screen during the small, tactile demands of fatherhood. All of it added friction rather than removing it.

What followed surprised me. Moving on wasn’t triggered by a campaign or a sudden moment of persuasion, but by something slower: brand experience compounding across years, touchpoint by touchpoint, until the outcome felt oddly inevitable.

I am a minimalist by instinct, suspicious of objects that shout, and far more interested in things that age well than those that announce themselves loudly on day one. When I started thinking about a different watch, it wasn’t about reward or status, nor about marking a milestone; it was about finding one good object that could live with me for years. I wanted something I’d enjoy noticing rather than explaining, something that didn’t demand optimisation, updates, or my undivided attention. It was also a lot of money, and I wanted to get it right.

My criteria arrived long before any brand entered the picture: Swiss-made, robust, genuinely waterproof, and mechanically interesting without being decorative. I wanted a clean dial, no clutter, and no unnecessary performance. Premium, yes, but good value relative to quality; above all, I sought a piece with character that I could look at quietly and feel proud of, without feeling like I was trying to prove anything.

The brand came later. That brand was Breitling, and the watch I eventually chose was the Superocean Heritage ’57. By the time I tried it on, a lot of trust had already been quietly built.

What I didn’t understand at the time was that I was already inside its world. Not through advertising, but through accumulation; stories, associations, and references layered gently over decades.

The name arrived before the product

Before I ever associated the name with watches, I associated it with something else entirely.

In 1999, when I was in my twenties, it was the name on the Breitling Orbiter 3, the balloon that completed the first non-stop circumnavigation of the globe. What lodged itself in my memory wasn’t the technical achievement alone, but the framing: the name wasn’t applied as sponsorship, it was the vehicle. Not adjacent to the adventure, nor borrowing credibility from it, but inseparable from the mission itself. It is a brilliant name that cemented the sense of adventure.

That distinction matters. Precision, endurance, and risk weren’t being claimed; they were being demonstrated. I wasn’t conscious of it as marketing at the time, but the association settled quietly anyway, filed away alongside the achievement rather than the promotion.

Years later, living in Switzerland, I found myself in the Swiss Museum of Transport in Lucerne, standing next to the Orbiter gondola suspended in the exhibition space. There was no pitch, no narrative arc, no attempt to explain why I should care; just an artefact confirming that the story I half-remembered had genuinely happened. It made the name feel earned rather than constructed, and explained why it already carried weight long before I ever tried on a watch.

Familiarity without intent

I noticed the name again in long-form articles that treated watches seriously; I saw it on friends’ wrists, worn and unremarked upon, never presented as a statement or a flex. Nobody talked about investment potential or manufactured scarcity; they talked about comfort, balance, and how a watch settles into daily life after a month or two. The choice of Brad Pitt as an ambassador helped too, subtly signalling that the brand was no longer speaking only to pilots and purists.

There was a consistent absence of urgency. No countdowns, no hype cycles, no sense that I needed to act now or miss out. The presence was steady, almost patient; always there, never demanding.

The physical experience

Living in Basel, I tried the watch on several times, often weeks apart; sometimes in multi-brand jewellers, sometimes in the more controlled calm of the Breitling Boutique Basel itself. This matters, because it’s where the brand stops being an idea and becomes a physical environment you can inhabit for fifteen minutes.

What stood out wasn’t the theatre, because there wasn’t much of it, and that restraint felt deliberate. The lighting is flattering but not dramatic; the mirrors are placed so you catch the watch in a normal glance rather than a posed one; the language stays technical and low-ego; and the pacing is unhurried in a way that quietly signals confidence.

Even the handling feels curated: the watch is offered in a way that invites you to notice proportions and comfort first, straps appear as choices rather than upsells, and nobody behaves as though time is running out. It’s subtle, but it’s exactly the point.

Nothing revealed itself immediately, which I found oddly reassuring. I walked away more than once, unsure whether liking something quietly was reason enough to own it.

The one I chose

The watch I eventually bought, the Superocean Heritage ’57, wasn’t rare or iconic, and it didn’t promise anything about who I might become. It simply felt right. The size worked; the dial remained calm; the design didn’t try to impress me in the first ten seconds, which turned out to be its greatest strength. It felt like something intended to age, not perform.

Seeing it over time on other wrists only reinforced that sense: worn, occasionally knocked, discussed rather than showcased. An object meant to live alongside you, not be protected from life.

What brand leaders should notice

That experience taught me something important about how luxury marketing actually works when it works.

We often talk about consistency as a discipline in brand leadership, but we rarely see how legacy and restraint reveal their true value when allowed to compound over time. This experience made that argument tangible, because it shows what consistency looks like from the buyer’s side.

It doesn’t push, it doesn’t rush, and it doesn’t try to close; it allows meaning to build slowly, through presence in the right places, cultural alignment, physical experience, and consistency over time. The best luxury brands don’t optimise for conversion moments; they optimise for inevitability.

I couldn’t tell you which article, wrist, boutique visit, or passing reference mattered most, and that isn’t a failure of attribution. It’s evidence that the system worked exactly as it should.

Coming full circle

The Apple Watch was bought instantly, sold on promise and convenience. The watch I wear now arrived slowly, through repetition and trust. One demanded attention constantly; the other asks almost nothing at all. It doesn’t track me, interrupt me, or attempt to improve me; it simply keeps time, quietly and reliably.

In a world full of noise and urgency, that refusal to demand anything may be the most luxurious feature of all. The brands that endure aren’t usually the loudest; they’re the most consistent, the most credible, and the ones that quietly show up the same way every time.

None of this is accidental or lazy. It’s marketing with discipline, built to compound over years rather than spike in a moment.

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Martin Potter is a Basel-based Integrated Creative Leader bridging Strategic Communications, Brand Experience, Digital, UX, GenAI & Experiential Marketing with global experience spanning Bain & Company, Jack Morton Worldwide and Novartis. Copyright 2026